Tequila Lesson 02: So… How Is Tequila Made?
Breaking Down the Key Stages of Production—From Piñas to Proofing
Tequila might be made mainly from just one plant, but its flavor is anything but simple. Behind every sip—whether grassy and bright, or rich and smoky—are dozens of deliberate choices made throughout its journey from field to bottle. In fact, there are nine major stages in tequila production, and every single one plays a role in shaping the final spirit’s personality.
From how long the agave is grown, to the type of oven it’s cooked in, the yeast used in fermentation, or even the wood (or lack thereof) in aging—each decision is a lever that pulls flavor in a different direction. Think of them as building blocks; swap one out or tweak the method, and you can end up with a completely different tequila. This lesson unpacks those nine stages and explores how production techniques—both traditional and modern—create the vast flavor spectrum we taste today.
I haven’t shared many personal photos here (yet), but I figured it was time to change that—especially for this one. Earlier this year, I had the chance to visit Tequila, Mexico for the very first time, and it absolutely blew my mind. I toured distilleries, walked through agave fields, and saw every stage of production up close—and let me tell you, tequila hits different when you’ve seen what goes into it.
So, as we run through how tequila is made and what shapes its flavor, I’m sharing a few snapshots from the trip. Consider this both a flavor deep-dive and a little peek behind the scenes.
Oh and for the record, the photo above, isn’t me doing a cool pose, but rather, literally caught in the act of massaging my knee from being sore as I was nursing patellar tendonitis (and still sort of am now).
But I digress, let’s jump into the 9 main stages of Tequila production.
1. Agave Cultivation
Tequila starts with Blue Weber agave, a spiky desert plant grown primarily in Jalisco, Mexico. It takes on average 6–8 years for an agave plant to fully mature, storing its sugars in a large core called the piña. The timing of harvest is crucial—too early and the sugars are underdeveloped; too late and the plant begins to flower, depleting its sweetness. During this period, agaves are monitored for size and sugar content, often by skilled farmers who understand the lifecycle. This stage is all about patience and terroir—the plant’s flavor is influenced by altitude, climate, and soil.
This is an example of a field of blue agave plants. These are only about 3-4 years old!
2. Harvesting (Jima)
When ripe, the agave is harvested by skilled workers known as jimadores. Using a specialized tool called a coa, they strip away the plant’s sharp leaves to reveal the starchy core or piña. These cores, which can weigh up to 100 kg, are the raw material for tequila. Harvesting is labor-intensive and requires precision—removing too much leaf can waste valuable sugars, while leaving too much adds bitterness. The jima process represents not just tradition, but also the transition from plant to product.
For scale, this is a piña (the heart of the agave). The average weight of a piña is like 80-200 lbs but I’ve been working on my deadlifts for this moment. Interestingly, it takes about 15 pounds of piña to yield 1 litre of tequila.
3. Cooking (Hornos or Autoclaves)
The piñas are then slowly steam-cooked to convert complex inulin sugars into fermentable sugars. Traditional hornos (stone ovens) can take 24–72 hours, while autoclaves (industrial pressure cookers) speed things up to under 12 hours. Cooking softens the fibers and deepens the sweet, roasted agave flavor. This is a pivotal moment where the agave begins to reveal its flavor potential.
4. Crushing (Extraction)
Once cooked, the agave is crushed to extract its sugary juice. This can be done using a traditional tahona (a massive volcanic stone wheel) or more commonly, a roller mill. The tahona yields a slower, more artisanal extraction, keeping more fiber and earthy flavors in the mix. Modern roller mills are more efficient, separating juice from fiber quickly. This juice, called aguamiel, is the foundation of fermentation.
This is an example of an old tahona wheel that would be used to crush the cooked piñas.
5. Fermentation
The extracted juice—sometimes with retained agave fibers—is transferred to fermentation tanks, where yeast is added to convert sugars into alcohol. This can be spontaneous (with native yeasts) or controlled (with lab-cultured strains). Fermentation typically lasts 3–7 days, depending on temperature, tank material (wood, stainless steel, concrete), and yeast strain. Fermentation is arguably where the spirit’s personality takes shape, especially in traditional methods where wild yeasts add unpredictable nuance.
6. Distillation
After fermentation, the liquid is distilled—usually twice—in copper pots, stainless steel stills, or even clay pots. The first run (called ordinario) separates out solids and some water, while the second distillation (rectificación) refines the alcohol and removes undesirable compounds like methanol and fusel oils. The type of still, speed of distillation, and the chosen “cut points” all affect the final tequila’s purity, strength, and flavor.
This is an example of one of the copper pot stills that was formerly used to distill the tequila at Fortaleza.
7. Aging (Optional)
Not all tequila is aged, but when it is, it’s typically stored in oak barrels to mellow and develop additional layers of flavor. Reposado is aged 2 months to under a year, añejo for 1–3 years, and extra añejo for 3+ years. Some producers experiment with unusual barrels (wine, sherry, bourbon). Aging brings notes of vanilla, spice, caramel, and wood tannin, softening the raw agave and creating new complexities. However, it also masks some of the plant’s natural brightness, so producers must balance wood with agave.
This is an example of inside of a maturation warehouse (it was quite small, more like a dunnage warehouse). You can see the mould growing on the ceiling from the moisture!
8. Blending & Additives (If Used)
To ensure consistency, producers often blend batches—from different barrels or fermentation lots—to match a house style. Some add glycerin, caramel color, oak extract, or sweeteners (especially in the mixto category or certain “smooth” styles). These additives, while legal in small amounts, are controversial, with critics saying they compromise transparency and flavor integrity. Still, blending is a crucial art that allows for nuance, balance, and repeatability, especially in large-scale production. Think of it as the final flavor polish—for better or worse.
9. Dilution & Bottling
The final tequila is diluted with water—often local spring or filtered water—to reach the desired bottling strength (typically 38–40% ABV). This last step ensures drinkability while preserving flavor integrity. Some craft producers emphasize the quality of their proofing water, while others may skip dilution altogether (high-proof or still-strength tequilas). Once diluted, the tequila is filtered (sometimes charcoal filtered, especially in Cristalinos), then bottled, labeled, and sent off to markets around the world. From here, it’s ready to be poured, sipped, or shaken into your favorite cocktail.
At many of distilleries (large and small), labels are still applied by hands and bottled by hand!
From field to bottle, tequila is shaped by a series of choices—nine key stages where tradition, technique, and terroir intersect. Each step, from the ripeness of the agave to the type of still or aging barrel used, contributes to the final flavor in ways both subtle and striking.
Now that we’ve mapped out the full production process, our next lesson will take a deeper dive into how these decisions translate to taste—exploring the sensory impact of each stage and why no two tequilas are ever quite the same.
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